
What the heck are those NRS straps doing in that canoe, anyway?
Locking your footbrace and sliding seat together just makes sense. And it’s very easy to do.

A few years ago, Wenonah Canoe debuted a version of their integrated sliding seat and footbrace for solo touring canoes. This option had long been standard on racing canoes but never offered for tripping models. The integrated slider connects the seat to the footbrace via two machined aluminum rods. You set the distance from the seat for comfort and when you slide the seat forward or backwards the footbrace goes along for the ride. This preserves the proper distance from the seat to the footbrace regardless of where the seat is on the pedestal. This is hugely important for comfort and efficiency. You need to be able to slide the seat to adjust for trim and if the seat isn’t connected to the footbrace you’ll be cramped if you slide forward or too stretched out if you slide to the rear.
I have an Advantage with the new sliding seat and it is fantastic. I also have a beater fiberglass Encounter that was built long ago in the mists of time before this new option was even conceived of. What to do?
Turns out there is a simple solution and this is going to be my shortest DIY post ever.



That’s it. With the straps adjusted to proper length you can loosen the footbrace wheel nuts so it can slide unimpeded. Your body weight in the seat prevents the seat from sliding and pressure against the footbrace holds it in place. To move the seat, release pressure on the footbrace and slide. Once the seat is repositioned, apply pressure to the footbrace until it is fully tensioned against the straps. Simple as.
Is it as slick as the factory option? No. It’s sloppier. But it gets the job done. And is much better than nothing at all.

This is such an easy modification that there really is no reason not to do it on your favorite Wenonah solo canoe. It takes only minutes and dramatically improves performance when paddling in wind and waves.
Do it.

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